Fresh morels should be firm and springy, with a strong earthy aroma. Avoid any with stems that are dried out, slimy, or moldy, or with tips that are flaking apart. One of the biggest things to check for is bugs. Morels are hollow and have many ridges, and tend to have bugs or bug eggs.
Morels are often categorized and sold by their color, which might be yellow, black, or white.
“Look at morels and see if there are any tiny white things on the outside,” says Fortu. “One or two bugs is no big deal, but a mushroom infested with them is no longer good.” Morels should be soaked in water before cooking to release any sand, dirt, bugs, and bug eggs. Soak them for up to an hour in ice water, changing the water every so often. Pat them dry with paper towels or a dish towel before cooking or storing. Stored in small brown paper bags in the refrigerator (never use plastic), just-picked morels can last for up to a week.
Fresh vs. dried morels
More than almost any other wild mushroom, dried morels closely resemble fresh when reconstituted. Sourcing is key, however. “Dried morels are only good if the fresh product is good,” says Fortu. “The small bags in most grocery stores are exorbitantly priced and not of the best quality. If you get them from reputable foragers or wild food companies, they will be much better.”
It takes about 10 pounds of fresh morels to produce one pound of dried morels, says Fortu. Soak dried morels for at least 30 minutes in hot tap water to ensure they have a similar texture to fresh. Strain the water through a very fine strainer or coffee filter to use in any dish that calls for water or broth, such as pasta sauce, risotto, or a wild mushroom paella.
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