That’s how I found myself on a stunning drive through the Basque Country, headed for the village of Axpe. I arrived at an 18th-century stone cottage surrounded by rocky green hills, restored over 30 years ago by chef-owner Victor Arguinzoniz. He describes Etxebarri as “a very small, simple restaurant where we focus on the quality of the ingredients and where we try to explore the world of live-fire cooking.”
This exploration lies at the core of what makes the restaurant special. Around 40% of the menu changes daily, and everything is cooked with an element of fire over wood or charcoal. The wood Arguinzoniz uses changes with the season and ingredients; on my visit in early winter, he opted for holm oak for fish and vegetables because it burns slowly and is not too strong. In stark contrast to many professional kitchens that have turned to the world of tech, Arguinzoniz has taken a turtle-esque approach to success: He moves slowly and methodically, in rhythm with nature.
“I think this is the magic of working with fire because we cannot teach it,” he says. It’s a feeling and experience that one must learn, he explains, almost a way of life.
As the meal unfolded, I was surprised by how unpretentious and relaxed it felt. With only eight tables, lunch service was intimate, akin to dining in a friend’s cozy, rustic dining room (if that friend happened to own an idyllic farmhouse overlooking the lush Basque countryside). The dishes looked simple, but the flavors were layered and complex. A dish of local mushrooms came veiled with a hint of smoke and bathed in a bright, verdant sauce. A charred steak with an impressive salt-dotted crust got a beautiful lift from an accompanying lightly dressed, crisp salad.
